Tag Archives: Garden of Eden Cave

RETURN TO VEENFLIET’S CAVE, SCHOHARIE

EDITOR’S NOTE: We return here to Schoharie’s Cave of the Tapir’s Tooth (see Nov. 1, 2023, post). This account offers numerous new details on the cave’s 1831 discovery, its rich history, and challenging exploration. We meet then-owner and namesake, Richard VeenFliet, and learn he once considered opening his cave along the banks of the Schoharie Creek to the public. VeenFliet’s Cave also figures prominently in Garden of Eden lore. See last month’s post by Bob Addis.

Originally published as “The Tale of an Ancient Tapir and His Abode in the Mysterious Caves of Schoharie,” in The Knickerbocker Press, Sunday, May 1, 1933.  By Ray A. Mowers. The photographs used are from that article.

Hunting a title for this unusual story, there is one that seemed perfectly swell: “The Tale of a Tapir’s Tooth.”

There is just one discrepancy while a tapir’s tooth does figure in the tale, the tale itself is not so toothsome—which, if not gaudy, is a pretty fair pun as puns go, in this era of radio comedy.

As a matter of cold, dank fact, this story deals with the rediscovery of a cave in the age-old limestone of Schoharie County—a cave found a century ago by John Gebhard Jr. the first geologist New York state ever had1.

The tooth of a tapir was. . . But it’s a little too soon to speak of that.

Now, for at least the third time since its discovery, this cave’s almost wholly virgin area is about to be explored. And this time, perhaps, it may be prepared for public inspection. If so, it will add another to the growing string of underground curiosities in the historic Schoharie Valley2.

One sultry day in the summer of 1831, John Gebhard Jr.3, geologist extraordinaire, allowed his curiosity to get the better of him—a common fault with scientists the world over. He wanted to know where that ice-cold water came from that bubbled ceaselessly from the foot of a rocky ravine on property adjoining has own.

The investigation which he began led to a yawning cavern in the limestone rocks a few hundred feet from his home, then located on the Schoharie river shore. The opening is small but still large enough for him to penetrate within the side of the rocky surface walls.

What he saw that day caused him to take a few friends into his confidence. They accompanied him to the scene. As a consequence, Jr. Gebhard and his companions expended considerable energy in clearing away debris about the mouth of the cavern. They managed to explore back 500 feet before encountering a barrier.

LEFT, The entrance to VeenFliet’s Cave along the Schoharie Creek, east of the Bridge Street, or “Gebhard” Bridge. Center, the tapir’s teeth found in the cave, and finally at right, owner Richard VeenFliet.

Determined that someday they would blast out this barrier and see what lay beyond, the explorers of a century ago rested on their laurels and the work ended there.

EXPLORATIONS RENEWED

It seemed there had been little descriptive material dealing with the discovery prepared for posterity when Geologist Gebhard and his friends passed on. At any rate, it was not until 1867 that, according to existing records, another attempt was made to open the cavern.

Once more intervening years had clogged the opening, and it again was necessary to ply pick and shovel to provide easy entrance.

On this occasion, the cavern floor was covered with water ranging to varying depths but requiring the use of a boat to get in and about.

Again, the barrier was encountered and like their predecessor, the new set of explorers determined to blast it away and see what lay beyond. This was never done.

More than six decades have passed since this exploring party disintegrated and turned its attention to other things.

At that time, the cave was on property owned by Napoleon Clark and, what had once been locally known as Gebhard’s Cave, became Clark’s Cave for the time being.

PROPERTY CHANGES HANDS

Long before those post-bellum days, the land had been added to the property on the southerly side of the Schoharie-East Cobleskill road, owned for more than a century by a succession of Gebhards.

Several years ago, the last of the Gebhards died and the property came into the possession of Richard Veenfliet, Jr., a man with a strong geological bent who had passed many hours with members of the Gebhard family, collecting valuable paleontological exhibits.

A crude map of the cave frome a 1950s guide to the caves of Schoharie County. The entrance is at the right. an unknown explorer’s handwritten remarks at included.

When the old Gebhard residence overlooking the Schoharie was burned, Mr. Veenfliet built a modern home upon its site. Back of it still stands the original John Gebhard barn of the early 19th Century, held staunch by gigantic handhewn timbers.

Across the highway and back in the ravine, the new owner took his determined way one day about two years ago. There he espied the entrance to the cavern which State Geologist Gebhard had explored almost exactly a century ago.

For a third time shovels and picks were carried to the debris-choked entrance to clear away the deposits of 50 winters.

Finally forcing entrance, Mr. Veenfliet found his labor and time had been profitably spent so far as his concern in geological affairs went. He also discovered an antique lamp within the cavern portal, evidently left behind by Gebhard, the explorer of 1831. He found, too, other evidence of the work done by his successors of 1867.

Equipped with modern electric hand torches, Mr. Veenfliet was easily able to’ overcome the handicap of ineffective illumination from which his predecessors unquestionably had suffered.

What his lamps disclosed made him hold his breath in astonishment.

Not since Lester Howe took his eccentric self within the portals of his celebrated cave back in 18474 had anyone beheld such an untouched, unmarred display of limestone stalactites and stalagmites.  Here, he decided, was something well worthwhile.

ENTER TAPIR’S TOOTH

Returning to the sunshine outside, the new discoverer decided in the way of his predecessor to summon at least one friend upon whom he could depend for personal interest in such a project– Charles Helma, of Schenectady. Together, they set to work to dig away the remainder of the debris at the mouth of the cavern and conduct further exploration. While engaged in this work, they came upon one of the chief discoveries of their enterprise. It was the tooth of a strange animal together with what appeared to be a portion of a vertebrae.

The tooth was without roots. It had a creamy tint of old ivory and a high polish. Dispatched to scientists at the American Museum of Natural History in New York and later to the Smithsonian Institute in Washington, the tooth was pronounced that of a tapir.

The tapir now is confined to a habitat in Central and South America. Once, ft seems, it ranged the glacier-ridden terrains farther north.

The tooth, said the scientists, must have been dropped in the cavern or deposited in one of the strata now forming it not less than 25,000 years ago in what is known as Upper Pleistocene period.

FINDS INNER CHAMBER

Five hundred feet from the entrance, Mr. Veenfliet and Mr. Helma encountered the barrier which had blocked the explorations of both 1831 and 1867. It is of beautiful flowstone, not clay as Gebhard characterized it in the uncertain light of his antique coal-oil lantern.

On either side of the barrier, the new discovers found narrow passageways leading onward. One was found to be narrow and tortuous with a treacherous quicksand floor. The other was negotiable for a slender man lying prone and pulling himself along like a serpent.

Mr. Veenfliet essayed the passage. He discovered at the end of 30 feet that a magnificent stalactite barred egress at the farther end of the rocky tube. It resisted all hie efforts to break ft.

His electric flash lamp’s rays showed he was at the end of the narrow tunnel and beyond lay a gigantic room studded with translucent glories in limestone, never before seen by man. If he could have passed the obstinate stalactite, it would have been possible to turn about and crawl back to daylight head on, just as he had come. As it was, however, he was compelled to retrace his way by laboriously pushing himself feet foremost to where Mr. Helma was waiting eagerly.

One problem had been solved—there was a way to go on regardless of the flowstone barrier. But it left unanswered the question whether the newly explored passage led to the main cavern behind the barrier or to another independent branch of the subterranean mystery.

And so, the matter rests today while Mr. Veenfliet seeks ways and means to develop this thing of an earthly beauty which lies below the surface of his rugged land.

OTHER CAVES NEARBY

This cavern—once Gebhards, then Clarks and now Veenfliets—is the only one ever discovered in West Mountain, the towering limestone tablerock that divides the watersheds of the Schoharie from the Cobleskill Valley all the way from Central Bridge westward, until it loses its identify with mountains of the northernmost Catskills.

Those who would look into this rediscovery of Gebhard’s century-old find should cross the bridge at Schoharie on the road to East Cobleskill. An ancient watering trough will be found beside the highway. It was there the farmers of Cobleskill, Barnerville, and elsewhere on the north side of the divide were wont to let their horses drink on the long ride to and from the county seat.

The water supplying this trough comes from the boiling spring of icy water which John Gebhard traced to the subterranean source within his cave 100 years ago – the cave of the tapir’s tooth.

1 Not exactly. He was the first curator of “Geological Hall” in Albany, which later became the NYS Museum. His field work before that supported the publication of the 1843 New York Geological Survey,  Samples from the survey—taken from across the state—figured in the creation of the Hall, originally referred to as the state “cabinet.” See “The Gebhards of Schoharie,” Chapter 1, Section IV of my book, Underground Empires: Two Centuries of Exploration, Adventure & Enterprise in NY’s Cave Country.  Available here.

2 Howe Caverns and Secret Caverns were open to the public just four years earlier, and a third cave, Schoharie Caverns, was being prepared at around this same time.

 3 Born 1802, died 1889.

4 The correct date is 1842.

FACT OR FICTION: LESTER HOWE’S ‘GARDEN OF EDEN’

Editor’s Note: I’m happy to share our first “guest blog,” written by an old friend and caving mentor, Bob Addis. He shares his thoughts on one of caving’s greatest folk tales, that of the Howe “Garden of Eden.” (Incidentally, both Bob and I have put in time searching for the lost cave. We’ll keep it a secret. Photo by Art Palmer.)

By BOB ADDIS

The best and most often told tale-yarn-legend in northeastern caving circles is that of Lester Howe’s long-sought “Garden of Eden Cave” and the “Finger of Geology” that points to its location.

 Learning the tale is a prerequisite for every new adventurer who takes an interest in NY’s Cave Country. The Garden of Eden legend has encouraged more cave hunting activity—ridge walking, digging, and hard pushing in the most dismal low, wet and muddy crawls and impossibly tight crevices—than anyone could imagine. It’s also been good for the advancement of NE cave science and “building the character” of the cavers who move on to states with more, and larger, caves.

How it All Began

The story begins like this: On his death bed in July 1888, Lester Howe is rumored to have sat up and said, “I have discovered a cave larger and more beautiful than Howe’s Cave, but I will reveal its location to no man.” He flopped back and died. Good one, heh?

A lesser repeated subset rumor, but without an exact quote, is that two men learned of the location from Howe at this time. The pact they made was that after one of them died, another new man would be entrusted with the secret. In that way, at least two men would always know the cave’s location.

Of course, both men died without passing along the secret of the Garden of Eden.

YOUNG BOB AFTER HIS FIRST TRIP TO HOWE CAVERNS

Lester was a rascal, self-promoter, and well known for blowing smoke. 

 For example, Lester guided many of the early tours through Howe’s Cave and numerous newspaper accounts varied on the details given them by Howe. He may have simply “made it up as he went along!” (I won’t attempt to prove this point here since both Thom Engel’s book and two by Dana Cudmore do an excellent job on the subject.)

From about 1928-31, Arthur Van Voris, a Cobleskill merchant, led a group of young men around the cave country and recorded their underground adventures in a series called The Lesser Caves of Schoharie County. Separate editions were held in five loose-leaf, three-ring notebooks. Some articles also appeared in the local papers.

The five notebooks were continuously updated and expanded by Van Voris and given to what he considered reference facilities. As a result of his updating habit, the notebooks didn’t all have the same content and by 1980 they all had been lost or stolen. Fortunately, the regional Mohawk-Hudson Grotto of the National Speleological Society borrowed one notebook in 1970, retyped it, and put out a limited edition of the publication, thus saving its important contents.

Van Voris’s brother-in-law, Edward Rew, was one of those early cavers and most likely no stranger to smoke blowing. One or more of the notebooks had Rew’s account of a solo trip he took one night during a dry season when water levels were extremely low. He explored Veen Fliet’s Cave on the Schoharie Creek near the village of the same name, and he claimed he went on and on a great distance only to turn back when he realized he was alone with only one flashlight, or some such. He never could get back to the cave and delayed telling the story for years. (More about this later.)

Was Lester’s deathbed description of finding a “larger and more beautiful” cave his own? Interestingly, Howe’s last utterance only first appears in Van Voris’s newspaper articles in the 1930s and hadn’t been found previously. But remember, Lester was a rascal and could have said it only to perplex future generations!

And now, the Finger of Geology

The northeast has raised many speleologists who have gone on to national and international acclaim. Geologists are quick to note the lineal nature of the fractures and fissures in the area’s bedrock limestones, and how cave passages were often created from them. That they “lined up” hints the passages might continue beyond any obstacle that blocked them along these major and minor joint patterns. Could new cave passages—maybe even the Garden of Eden—be found by following the joint patterns?

The most obvious case was roughly a mile of large trunk passage in McFail’s Cave, collectively the NW and SE passages, lining up closely with about a mile of similar passage in Howe Caverns, i.e., Lester Howe’s Cave.

LARGE PASSAGE IN McFAIL’S CAVE. Cave photos for this article by Art Palmer, Oneonta.

On a bearing of N47W, these two large passages are truncated by a valley cut by glaciers 100,000 years ago.

Extend that bearing to S47E and it points at a geological feature called Terrace Mountain. This a plateau of mostly limestone left after twoseparate streams cut around it. The south is bound by the Schoharie Creek and the geologically younger east side is bound by the Cobleskill Creek.

 Terrace Mountain has another important link to our story. It was home to Lester Howe’s Garden of Eden farm, where he settled sometime around 1870 after selling his beloved (first?) cave, and the site became an epicenter of Lester weirdness and other tall tales and rumors we won’t get into here.

Extending that compass bearing from McFail’s through the trunk of Howe’s Cave through Terrace Mountain, with some imagination and a slightly flexible straightedge, it leads to Rew’s findings in Veen Fliet’s Cave. And it comes close to some smaller caves and pits on Terrace Mountain as well.

So naturally, one could assume this is the Finger of Geology pointing out where cavers should go to look for the fabled cave! Rew, also known for some good-natured prevarication, hinted that it was.

By the 1950s, a group of enthusiastic cavers in the Tri-County Grotto from Oneonta in neighboring Otsego County, worked the Schoharie County caves hard and produced amazing and strange discoveries. A young Cliff Foreman was making a name for himself as part of that group. Again, I refer to Cudmore’s books documenting this.

Forward to the “Golden Caving Age” of the 1960s in the northeast and the presence of three brilliant pranksters: Dave Beiter, Steve Egemeirer and again, Cliff Foreman. To the urban, sophisticated new cavers coming out of New York City and New Jersey, these rural “Super Cavers” appeared to be easy sources of information on the caves and geology of Schoharie County. The newcomers assumed they could simply flatter their rural experts and pump them with questions to find their way around the cave country.

The game wasn’t going to be that easy.

Dave would pull out his topographic maps and Steve, a professional geologist with the USGS, would run his finger from McFail’s to Howe and on to Terrace Mountain and Veen Fliet’s, all the time chattering on about “the Finger of Geology” and tapping along the line on the map. (I witnessed this procedure several times and apparently none of the newer cavers ever got the joke or the information. I was 22 at the time.)

And the fun part of this “game” was for Dave, Steve, and Cliff to take on different roles in the farce.  Any one of them was capable of spinning the yarn or asking leading questions to hint at the fabled cave’s possible location. Dave went so far one year as to indicate a fabricated location for the Garden of Eden on a map, and then leave the rolled-up map where the other group might find it. Sure enough, next year a dig was underway at the very spot.

Dave, Steve and Cliff have passed, but the rumor they helped spread persists 135 years after Howe’s death. True or not, it certainly has been a driving force in caving the northeast. I think Cudmore in his book, Underground Empires, expressed the dream and drive best.  “There, in a vast room miles into the hillside, set among abundant crystal-like formations, the explorers may find chiseled in the limestone wall or written in soot from an oil-burning lamp: “Garden of Eden Cave. Discovered 1855 by L. Howe.

Bob Addis, a retired engineer living is Scotia, New York, is a long-time northeastern caver, former Howe Caverns tour guide, and past member of the board of governors of the National Speleological Society. His MBA thesis on the management of Knox Cave in Albany County led to the creation of the Northeastern Cave Conservancy in 1978. One of the conservancy’s three founding members, he served as president of that organization for 38 years.

He has managed several caves open to the public, and explored wild caves across the US, and in Germany, Mexico, and South Africa.

MEMORIES OF A CAVE COUNTRY BOYHOOD

Editor’s Note: Jim Muller spent his formative years in the heart of NY’s Cave Country. Born in 1953, he grew up on his family’s dairy farm adjacent to the Howe Caverns estate and its well-manicured quarter-mile drive up the hill to its picturesque lodge overlooking the valley to the west.

Like other kids in the Howes Cave area, the cave’s history and tales of the lost Garden of Eden cave became part of their school-age play. Jim knew there were plenty of other caves in the area as well and explored several while attending Schoharie Central High School.

Jim lived adjacent to Howe Caverns during its heyday as a tourist attraction, when more than 2,000 visitors (often more) came daily during the summer months. Then open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. a steady stream of vehicles wound along the two-lane road from the main highway, past the Muller farm and up the hill to the cave entrance.  (Jim wasn’t allowed to learn to ride a bike until into his late teens; his mother fearful of the out-of-town traffic.)

Dave Reynolds and Jim Muller riding “Nip” and “Tuck” in this slightly blurry photo from 1961. The photo at the top of the page is 13-year-old Jim atop “Duke,” at right. At left is an unidentified college friend of Jim’s older sister, seated on “Tuck” – during her first visit to a farm and to ride a horse. 

Fortunately for the reader, Underground Empires: Two Centuries of Exploration, Adventure, and Enterprise in NY’s Cave Country brought back many fond memories for Jim, and he shared them with the author.

By JIM MULLER (From jimmuller.com, Oct. 29, 2021)

I just finished reading Underground Empires about Howe Caverns and I have enjoyed it immensely.  I don’t know if the feeling of nostalgia is due to my recent 50th year Schoharie Central High School reunion or that I could relate to so many of the people and places described in the book.

It has been a splendid read and I wrote a letter to the author. Dana Cudmore, who was a year behind me at Schoharie Central and worked as a guide at Howe Caverns with my brother Robert.  I wrote a letter to Dana about all my memories which Dana labelled as a “Cave Country Boyhood.”

From the early 1950s until the mid-1960s my family owned a dairy farm which abutted Howe Caverns’ property. Surrounding our farm was land owned by the Nethaway, VanNatten and Sagendorf families. As a pre-teen I drove a team of horses for the Nethaways; I learned to ice skate on Jimmy VanNatten’s pond, My sister Barbara was (and still is) best friends with Hope Sagendorf, and my other sister Jeanne, attended school prom with John Sagendorf.

My dad used to cut hay from Howe Caverns’ land. Each Spring, when my father would till new fields, we would pick rock and joke that moving the really big ones would lead us to the lost Garden of Eden cave. In 1958, the Caverns made a promotional film which used some of our family farm and four cows.  [I have an old picture that] shows an actor and cameraman setting up along a stone fence line for some “farmer wisdom” describing the 1842 discovery of Howe’s Cave.

Locally, us kids had a horse posse that included Bobby Beavers, Joyce Nethaway, Hope Sagendorf and occasionally Carolyn Rehberg. When my ponies escaped, we would frequently find them at the Caverns. mooching treats and affection from the tourists. One of the reasons I didn’t learn to ride a bike until I was 18 was due to proximity to Howe Caverns. With no shoulders along the country roads, my parents were certain if I was riding a bike I would get hit by a tourist. So, from age 5 on they entrusted my fate to “Nip,” my pony. I guess they figured his sense of self-preservation would extend to me as well.

My parents played cards with ‘Bud’ Tillison, owner of the Luncheonette and Grocery Store in the Howes Cave hamlet.  I recall it only having three small tables. I remember Bud giving me ice cream while he and my dad visited and as a youngster, I felt it couldn’t get any better.  Carolyn (Rehberg) Schlegel says she could recall that Bud designated a spot to tie a horse while the kids went into the store to buy a treat.

I see Carolyn often, playing senior’s volleyball and was telling her of Dana’s Underground Empires.  The Rehberg family was active in Yo-Sco-Haro Riding Club and served as 4-H leaders, The Rehberg farm was located at (or near) the site of Lester Howe’s farm and the suspected Garden of Eden.  Carolyn relayed a story told by her father Albert (Al), that when blasting was done for I-88, one of the blasts sounded a different ‘thump’ associated with settling earth. [Could it have been collapsing into a large cave? – ed.]

When I was 13 my family sold the farm to Lester Hay and built a house across the Schoharie Creek from Terrace Mountain.  Bill Dodge, the Schoharie biology teacher, sponsored our informal outing club, –the Schoharie Pit-Plunging and Cliff-Climbing Club. We undertook activities on Terrace Mountain and Partridge Run and canoed Schoharie Creek and raced canoes on the Susquehanna.

Lester Hay later married my sister, Jeanne and fathered Mark and Matthew Hay who worked as tour guides at the caverns.  In fact, many of us worked at the cavern.  My sisters, Barbara and Jeanne worked at the snack bar.  My cousin Karen Muller worked there as well.  It was during my sophomore year in high school that I joined the largest guides’ class ever assembled at the caverns and was trained by Don Reynolds.

As a junior and senior (SCS Class of 1971) I went caving with Bill Dodge and other friends, exploring Ball’s, Knox, Veen Fliet’s, Spider, Benson, and Przysiecki caves.

Somewhere in the late 1970s my brother Robert, father Clifford and brother-in-law Lester Hay salvaged an engine and winch which was used to clear the sinkhole known as the “Sinks by the Sugarbush.” Fifty-gallon drums, punctured to allow water to drain, were lowered for men and gear as well as to pull out the collapsed rock as they tried to clean it out.   We were always told they found some of Lester Howe’s items in a grotto near or at the sink.  We believe the engine and winch that were there dated back to late 20s or early ’30s as the engine was a ’20s vintage.  It was a six horsepower “Novo” with a capstan for rope and drum for cable.

Underground Empires has been a real joy to read. I feel blessed that I was able to grow up in the prosperous heydays of Howe Caverns and the book enabled many pleasant memories for me.

Jim Muller retired in 2021 after careers in GIS management and in information technology systems and management. He holds a bachelor’s degree in geography from SUNY Oneonta and a master’s degree in planning from the University of Washington in Seattle.

He and his wife, Kathryn, raised three children and reside in Holland Patent, New York, just outside the boundaries of the Adirondack Park. They have three grandchildren.

Jim has several lifelong interests and now shares them with his family. They include “back country” canoeing, winter camping, and raising Quarter horses.  He also enjoys basketball, volleyball, and pickleball.

HOWE’S CAVE & THE RAILROAD

In 1865, the A & S Brought Change —for Better or Worse

“It chanced that the writer, while in a half somnolent condition, induced by a long night’s ride in a railroad car, overheard snatches of conversation which ran somewhat thus:

‘Yes sir: three miles right into the bowels of the earth—nothing like it in the whole country, sir, aside from Mammoth Cave.’

‘Pooh! A mere dripping crevice in the rocks, I presume, or a dirty hole in the ground.’

‘No sir, wide and high, with waterfalls, galleries, and halls for three miles and the end not reached yet’.”

While the account above is imagined, taken from an old advertising pamphlet1, the conversation is probably not unlike other idle chit-chat that took place among passengers on the railroads of New York in the second half of the 19th century.

The Albany & Susquehanna Railroad, from the Hudson River at Albany to Binghamton.

The cave in the conversation is Howe’s Cave, long promoted in that era as a rival of Mammoth Cave of Kentucky. The train was certainly the Albany and Susquehanna, the Albany-to-Binghamton line that first reached the tiny community adjacent to the cave in 1865.

Things were never the same after that. The histories of the cave and the railroad are inextricably, and forever, linked.

The cave Lester Howe discovered in 1842 was a popular, well-known destination decades before the A&S arrived. The cave, one of the few opened to visitors at that time, attracted guests—mostly educated and well-to-do—who were thrilled by the novel, muddy, daylong underground adventure by torchlight. At the cave entrance, Howe built his “Cave House,” a rather plain three-story hotel of about 26 rooms. Guests were attended to by the Howe family: Lester and his wife, Lucinda; daughters Huldah and Harriet, and son Halsey, the youngest.

LESTER HOWE, 1810-1888

Construction of the A&S began on April 19, 1851, from what is today downtown Albany (near Pearl Street) to Schoharie Junction2. This initial effort, a 35-mile stretch along a mostly flat grade, took the train south, then west through communities that are today, Delmar, Slingerlands, and New Scotland before heading south-westerly along a gradual, miles-long easy bend towards the picturesque Schoharie Valley.

Surveyors spread out through the countryside west and southwest of Albany to plot a rail line that served communities, manufacturers, farms, and travel destinations along the route that, of necessity for the steam locomotives that pulled the train, had to be over relatively level ground.

Marking their route along the picturesque valley carved by the Cobleskill Creek, the surveying team likely stayed at the Howe family’s Cave House. They would have made note of the limestone hillside and documented the limestone outcroppings that would need to be removed from the proposed route of the train. 

And at least one A&S surveyor made note of Lester Howe’s teenage daughter, Harriet.

Hiram Shipman Dewey won the heart of 18-year-old Harriet Elgiva Howe, described by an heir as “small and retiring with blue eyes and (an) abundance of light brown hair.” Hiram, then in his mid-20s, was described as a good-looking, fun-loving young man, six feet tall, with dark brown hair and blue eyes.

Hiram and Harriet were married in the Bridal Chamber of the Howe family’s cave on Sept. 11, 1854 (There were several weddings in the cave around that time; they made for great publicity).  Later settling in Jefferson City, Mo., the couple had five children.

As money was raised, the rail line moved forward west from Albany. It took 12 years to complete the first phase of the A&S, the line reaching Schoharie Junction in 1863. Three years later, a separate 4.2-mile line, the Schoharie Valley Railroad, connected Schoharie village to the A&S at Schoharie Junction.

There was a change of management of the A&S in 1863 as well. Joseph H. Ramsey, a state senator from Lawyersville, Schoharie County, was named president of the railroad. He had been the railroad board’s vice president since 1856 and was instrumental in raising cash and selling railroad bonds.

Continuing west from Schoharie Junction, the lowest spot on the line was the crossing of Schoharie Creek at Central Bridge.  As the line climbed out of the valley, the tracks followed the north bank of Cobleskill Creek up to a point around West Richmondville, and then started a down grade that continued to Oneonta and beyond.

An uphill grade and sharp curve are an unwanted combination in railroad construction, not always avoided.  One railroad afficianado3 explained: “If you were going to stall a train on the A&S line, it would either happen at Howes Cave or behind (north) of what’s now the Cobleskill-Richmondville High School on Route 7 west of Warnerville. That’s where the combination of grade and curvature are the worst.” Accidents at both locations have proved the point.

On an 1854 map intended to show the relation of the A&S with other trains in New York at that time, Howes Cave is not marked. There were manufacturing concerns in Central Bridge and Cobleskill worthy of a depot for freight and passengers. While the cave and Cave House were well-known, there just wasn’t much else there.

But that would soon change. The railroad’s progress was closely watched by its stockholders, property owners along the line, and investors looking to profit from the train’s arrival. Speculators saw potential in the limestone that had been exposed around the cave; samples of it found their way to the office of the state geologist in Albany.  After testing, it was found comparable to the limestone in Rosendale, Ulster County, that was then being used to profitably make natural cement.

It was not by coincidence that three members of the Albany & Susquehanna’s board of directors were the first to learn of the money-making opportunity from Howes Cave limestone. (This would have been before 1863, as plans were being made for the second half of the A&S, from Central Bridge/Schoharie Junction to Binghamton.)

Construction of a depot in Howes Cave began in 1864, it opened the following year.  It would be needed to ship stone and cement—should such an enterprise be created nearby.

Richmondville Town Justice John Westover—later founder of the Band of Richmondville—and Jared Goodyear of Oneonta both sat on the A&S board. Along with two others from Otsego County, they were the first to profit from the natural resources around the rail line near the cave. They formed the Howes Cave Lime and Cement Company in 1867.

Two years later, on Dec. 31, 1868, the A&S line’s 142 miles to Binghamton were completed and a gala excursion train from Albany officially opened the new railroad on Jan. 12, 18694.

And later that year, A&S President Ramsey created the second company to exploit the limestone of Howes Cave. His plans for the Howes Cave Association included much more than just making cement.

Ramsey eventually took control of the famous cave itself, in a transaction that history records as being of dubious ethics.  The date (it’s not definitive) may have been as early as April 1869 and the exact method is not clear, but Howe accepted $12,000 of stock in the Howes Cave Association after turning down a $10,000 cash offer.  Ramsey had declared the Association’s stock to be worth $100,000 – a meaningless amount to everyone but Howe, who became a minority shareholder with little to say about company affairs.

Regardless, Ramsey added to the property, and expanded both the quarry and the caverns’ tour business. In 1872-73, he completed a new version of the Cave House, made of limestone from his quarry. To that, he added the huge, three-story Pavilion Hotel, completed in 1881, envisioned as a summer resort with amenities to rival those of the famous Catskills’ resorts of that era.  The imaginary conversation that leads this article was taken from the Pavilion Hotel’s advertising material.

The Pavilion Hotel was destroyed by fire in February 1900.

Working together in 1866, the A&S and Delaware & Hudson extended the A&S rails south of Binghamton to the Pennsylvania rail lines freighting coal. Then, in February 1870. the D&H perpetually leased the A&S for $490,000 per year. Passengers and others continued using “Albany & Susquehanna” as the line’s name for many years.

While interest in the cave waned in the early 1900s, the quarry business boomed. Historical photos from the early-to mid-20th century show six or more railroad sidings going into the cement works, and old news articles document from 15 to 20 freight cars being loaded with barrels and bags of cement each day. With each car having a capacity of from 160 to 300 barrels, each weighing about 365 pounds, a fully loaded freight car would have been carrying 55 tons of Howes Cave cement.

In about 1910, new owners of the cement quarry accidentally blasted into Howe’s Cave, eventually destroying about three hundred feet of it.  The cave was closed for nearly 20 years after that. New owners, Howe Caverns, Inc. opened in 1929.

Lester Howe died in 1888. Railroad President Joseph H. Ramsey died in 1894, and the train freight shipped to and from the Howes Cave quarry declined after the second half of the 20th Century and the quarry went to a smaller, bagged system, and shipped by tractor-trailer in the 1970s. Cement manufacturing in Howes Cave ended in 1976.

The A&S played an important role in the success of the Delaware & Hudson Railroad in the second half of the 19th Century. In a commemorative publication, “A Century of Progress, 1823-1923,” prepared by the D&H, the authors noted: “This progress in building the Albany and Susquehanna was by far the most important that affected the later history of the company during this period.

“[The A&S was] part of a larger general plan of affecting rail communication between Albany and the coal fields of northern Pennsylvania.”

The D&H ran independently from 1823 to 1991, when it was purchased by Canadian-Pacific Railway.

Riding the A&S Line to Old Howe’s Cave

The jostling, 39-mile train ride from downtown Albany to Howe’s Cave5 took a little more than two hours, including 10 stops along the way to pick up passengers or make water stops for the steam locomotive.  (The water stops were strategically located about every 10 miles through what are now the suburbs of Albany. There were stations with water stops in Central Bridge and Cobleskill.)

According to a January 1868 schedule in Jim Shaughnessy’s 1967 book, Delaware & Hudson, an A&S train left the Albany station about every four hours.

From the other end of the line, Howe’s Cave was 81 miles east of Harpersville, near Binghamton, with 17 stops along the way. If you left on the first A&S train at 5 a.m., you’d arrive at the cave just before noon.

In either direction, it is unlikely the noisy steam locomotive ever reached its top speed of about 50 mph, or if it did, it wasn’t for long.

The ride from Albany—one way—likely cost between three and four cents per mile; affordable to the upper and middle class of that period, but a luxury reserved for special occasions for the tradesmen and other working class New Yorkers. From Albany, then, a round-trip ticket to Howe’s Cave on the A&S likely cost between $1.50 and $2.25. That’s around $30 today.         “Parlor Cars” for those needing more luxurious amenities and/or privacy were available at an additional cost.

The Howes Cave depot was built following a common design used during that Civil War-era and was about 200 yards south of the hotel(s) that welcomed visitors to the famous cave. A small country station like Howes Cave would have a station agent living in the building itself, or at least close by.  It was not uncommon for married couples to live and work together at a station serving a small population.

The station agent’s responsibilities were many. He served as a dispatcher for trains coming and going, taking, giving, and sharing traffic and freight guidance from the central station. The agent would also handle the paperwork for incoming and outgoing baggage, freight, and mail. Passenger trains often carried the “Railway Post Office,” or RPO designation. Such cars picked up and dropped mail enroute and sorted it inside the car while the train was moving.

The train arrived in Howes Cave before a Post Office did and the few residents there relied on the A&S Depot for their postal needs until the PO was established Nov. 18, 1867.  

Passenger traffic on the line increased steadily and by the early 1890s, as many as three passenger trains ran daily to and from the Albany area from Cobleskill, according to the 1895 Grips’ Historical Souvenir of Cobleskill, NY.”  Trains also left daily for New York City and Boston.

Also, by that time, between 800 and 1,000 freight cars were leaving each month from the busy cement plant in Howes Cave and the stone quarries in Cobleskill, which produced cut stone blocks for projects such as the Brooklyn Bridge and New York Barge Canal system.

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1 From “Nature’s Wonder: Howe’s Cave,” the second chapter of the Howes Cave Association’s 1885 promotional brochure, “A Summer Home: The Pavilion Hotel, Howe’s Cave, Schoharie County, N.Y.”

2 This is today the intersection of Route 7 and Junction Road, Central Bridge. A Historical Marker indicates the location.

3 Personal e-mail from Gardner Cross, July 20, 2022

4 “The Rail in the Trail” by Susan E. Leath, Bethlehem Town Historian, 2012. Railroad buffs will appreciate that the historian included this: “The line was built with 60-pound iron, and a six-foot gauge enabling it to connect freely with the Erie Railroad in Binghamton. One of the goals was to connect to the southern-tier trains serving Pennsylvania coal country.”

5 “A Summer Home: The Pavilion Hotel, Howe’s Cave, Schoharie County, N.Y.” ibid.